Ilam Archives - Must See Iran

Geography Situation and County Subdivision of Ilam

Ilam area is about 19086 square kilometers, which is 4/1 percent of the entire country area. This province is located in west hills of Zagros Mounts between 31 degrees and 15-minute northern latitude of Equator and 45 degrees and 24 minutes to 48 degrees and 10-minute eastern latitude of Prime meridian in the western part of the country. Ilam is connected to Khuzestan from the south, Lorestan from east and Kermanshah from the north. It has 425-kilometers common border.
According to the last country subdivision in 1375, Ilam consists of seven Counties, seventeen villages, fifteen cities, thirty-six rural districts, and 753 villages.
Ilam counties are Abdanan, Ilam, Ivan, Darreh Shahr, Dehloran, Shirvan and Chardavol, and Mehran. The capital of the province is Ilam which named Arus Zagros (Zagros Bride) because of its beauty and eye-catching nature.

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Natural geography and climate of Ilam

Ilam terrains are made from parallel folds in northwest and southeast. This sediment remains from first to the fourth period of Geology but they mostly belong to the second and third period. These mountains are so widespread that no plain has been shaped between them.
According to the province terrains, north and northeast of the province consist of high mountains and its west and southwest consist of low districts with a slope toward the west. Grand plains of Mehran District and Abbas plain are located in this district. The height of these plains is lower than 300 meters. The terrains which are near this district makes the height difference between these two sides 3000 meters. According to this natural feature, Nomad lifestyle shaped in this district.
Generally, north and northeast of Ilam are mountainous but southwest and west are low. The most important heights of the province are Kabir Kuh and Dinar Kuh.
Ilam is considered a tropical district of the country. But the mountains caused temperature differences and more rainfall in the north, south and west parts. These districts are cold and have long winters, their minimum temperature is 15 below zero and the level of rainfall is more than 500 millimeter each year.
West and southwest plain districts of the province are tropical. Their maximum temperature is near 200 millimeters each year.
The middle districts have mild weather. Its temperature reaches 5 below zero in winter and its maximum temperature in southern parts and Darreh Shahr is more than 40 Celsius in summer. According to synoptic station researches in 1375 SH, Ilam maximum temperature was 38 Celsius in August and its minimum was four Celsius below zero in February. The annual level of rainfall was 4/578 millimeters, maximum relative humidity was 64 percent and minimum relative humidity was 24 percent. 27 days of winter were icy in this year.
In Dehloran County, the maximum temperature was 49/6 Celsius in July and its minimum was two Celsius below zero in February, the annual level of rainfall was 3/340 millimeters, maximum relative humidity was 56 percent and minimum relative humidity was 32 percent. 3 days of winter were icy in this year.
Annual rainfall and being the groundwater drainage of Zagros Mount are the reasons which have caused so many rivers shaped in this district. So many dams and canals had been built there. Ilam underground water has not a good Topography feature but its duct and underground water are used.

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Ilam Historical Geography

The province which named Ilam now was part of historical Ilam. This province was made 300 years BC and exist till 640 years BC. The province had been destroyed completely by Aahur Bani Pal Command. Some of its cities were; Shush (capital), Madakto (summertime capital), Ahavz, Khaydalu, Masabatic, and Kabyaneh.
In Babeli inscriptions, Ilam was called Alamato or Alam and means Mountains or sunrise country. After Ilam fall, it has been divided into two parts; Persian Government in East part and Medes in the west part. Achaemenid army should pay to highlanders to pass Zagros Road.
According to historians in Seleucid Empire Zagros People fight with foreigners. The historical monuments of the Sasanid Empire in Ilam and Lorestan indicates this district was so important once. Here are some of its cities; Masbandan, Mehrekan Kadak, Dar Shahr, Seymareh, Arikhun, and Shiravan. The exact place of some of these cities is not determined yet.
In the last Sasanid Empire, Firuzan Dynasty governs the province and Khuzestan. Its last commander was sent to Darolkhelafeh after being beaten in Jola war. After Iran conquest by Arabs, it was estimated that this district was part of Kufeh and some of its cities are Masbandan, Mehregan, Seymareh, and Marab.
Late in 4th centuries AH till early 6th Centuries, Hassanudieh Kord govern Lorestan and Ilam.
From 570 to 1006 AH, Atabakan Lor governs Lorestan and Poshtkuh. The last commander, Shahurdikhan, was killed by Safavid Shah Abbas and Hossein Khan Silvarzi, give the position of the lorestan commander to ancestors of Valian Abuqedareh. The dynasty moves their government to Poshtkuh (nowadays Ilam) and Qolamreza Khan Abuqedare commander after 1299 rebellion refuged to Iraq.
From 1309 SH, according to county subdivision, Ilam considered as the fifth province, Kermanshah. Then due to its political position become general governor and now is one of the important cities of the province.

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Ilam City

Ilam was called Orivjan once, it was built in a district named Hossein Abad and was named Ilam one year later by Academy of Persian Language and Literature. It had mountainous and pleasant weather.
Vlian Empire was in Ilam and Poshtkuh from the past three centuries. The most famous commanders of Vlian was Hossein Khan, Qolam Reza Khan, and Hossein Qoli Khan Abuqadareh. The dynasty depends on Iran government and pay tax and give soldiers to the government each year. By this deed, they got the position of commander of a district and governed the Nomad of their district.
Their government center was not fixed so Kishlak of Nomad was in Iraq Baqshahi or Beinonahrein Mosque and in summers in Holeylan or Hossein Abad (Central Ilam). 1500 camps were lived in Valy City which all belonged to Poshtkuh soldiers. Their costs were gained by taxes paid by people.

The last commander of the district was downed by Reza Shah and refuged to Iraq. After that Hossein Abad was changed to Ilam.
Nowadays Ilam is considered the political-official center of the province a developed province in the west of the country.

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Dareh Shahr city

This historical city had been destroyed and renovated several times during history. Arabs and Assur army were among who destroyed the city. This district was Madakto, capital of Ilam. People of Ilam who were commanders of Lorestan Mounts occupy the valley, main road and north border of the district. They make some structures which Madakto was one of them. Darreh Shahr was the first city which was destroyed in Ashur Bani Pal attack and so many people were mass murdered.
There are some Sasanid Monuments in Seymareh Valley. It seems that Darreh Shahr was still destroyed or not important in the Achaemenid Empire, however, the Parthian Empire was its renovation time. It is also renovated in Sasanid Empire. Remains of a city are found in Dareh Shahr ruined parts; remains of intersections, alley, and roads, the architecture of which was dedicated to its own time.
The found coins belonged to Khosrow III. It is said that this city had more than 5000 houses once and nothing related to mosques had been found there.
This city is now located on Kabir Kuh Hill near historical remains of Sasanid Empire and Seymareh River. It has a good agricultural situation, so many pastures, jungle and is considered one of the important cities of Ilam.

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Dehloran County

This city is located in south and southwest of Dinarkuh Hill and was known as Dehloran from ancient time.
The ancient and old things have been found there indicate that the antiquity of this district relates to prehistory especially the Sasanian Empire. Remains of historical cities and hills indicate the county old history.
Dehloran geographical position makes it an important city. Its position also causes lots of damage through history. Its importance is kept through further eras. The city destroyed a lot through the Iran Iraq War. The city was renovated after the war and was considered as an important tourist city.
Besides its tourist attraction has grand petroleum resources and agricultural fields which doubled its economic and geographical importance.

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Shirvan and Chardavol County

This county is among Ilam historical cities which belonged to the Sasanid Empire. Some of the monuments which are remained belonged to Sarab Kalan and Holeylan which are the historical castle, Sam Fire Temple, Tobreh Riz Hill (Sepa or Lolor Hill) and 160 hill and monuments orderly.
Shirvan was located in the north of Seymareh River and so many plaster and rocky monuments had been found there which belonged to Sasanian Empire.

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Mehran city

Mehran city is located in frontage of Kenjan Cham River and is near Iraq border. This district was once called Mansur Abad which was changed by Academy of Persian Language and Literature in 1309 AH.
This city like other border cities was caught and destroyed by Iraq in Iran Iraq War but was recaptured by Iran Army in 1365 SH. It was rebuilt during renovation after the war and has been recently called the Negin Sabz City of Iran.

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Abdanan County

This county is located on the south hill of Kabir Kuh. This county has lots of mineral resources like petroleum, sulfur, jungles, agricultural and animal husbandry pastures. Its monuments all around the county declare its oldness and civilization. Gurgabran and Krodit Castle are some of its antique monuments. The county has lots of promenades.

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Ivan County

Ivan County is a new county in Ilam Province. It has a good situation for agriculture and animal husbandry. This county is located between Ilam to Islam Abad and Gilan Qarb. The nature of the county is so eye-catching and its monuments are evidence of its oldness and civilization. The people of the county are from Kalhar Tribe and talk in Kalhari Language.

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